Seller Toolkit · Utah County

The DIY Quick CMA

How to sanity-check any price opinion, including mine. Solds versus actives, the adjustments people skip, and why the Zestimate misses.

"Every agent who walks through your door is going to hand you a number, and so is Zillow. Some of those numbers are built on what actually sold. Some are built on hope. Here's how to tell the difference, so nobody prices your house on a feeling, including me."
Kelsie Jimenez
Start Here

What a CMA Actually Is

A comparative market analysis prices your home off what truly similar homes actually sold for, recently, near you. That's it. It isn't what you paid, it isn't what you need to walk away with, and it isn't what your neighbor swears they got.

The market doesn't care about any of that. It cares about what a buyer will pay today, and the best evidence we have for that is what buyers just paid for homes like yours. Everything below is how to read that evidence yourself.

Part One

Solds, Actives, and Pendings

There are three lists, and they are not equal. Most people anchor on the wrong one because it's the one Zillow shows them first.

The Truth

Solds

Closed sales. What buyers actually paid. This is your foundation. Real money changed hands at these numbers.

The Present

Pendings

Under contract right now. Often fresher than solds, so they show where the market is heading this minute.

The Competition

Actives

Still for sale. These are wish prices and what you're up against, not proof of value. Many will sit or drop.

The most common mistake is pricing off the actives, because that's what's visible. Active list prices tell you what other sellers are hoping for. Plenty of them will sit on the market, cut their price, or never sell at that number at all. Anchor on solds. Use actives only to understand who you're competing with.

Part Two

Pulling Your Comps

The tighter the match, the less guessing you'll have to do later. Aim for sold homes that are:

Recent. Sold in the last 3 to 6 months. Older than that and the market may have moved.

Close. Your neighborhood or subdivision first. In Utah County especially, a few streets over can be a different price world, so stay inside your bubble when you can.

Similar. Comparable square footage (within about 20 percent), the same style, similar beds and baths, similar age and lot size.

Three or four genuinely similar solds beat ten loose ones. You're building a case, not a spreadsheet.

Part Three

The Adjustments People Skip

No two homes are identical, so you adjust for the differences. For each one, ask a single question: what would a buyer pay more or less for this?

A finished basement, an updated kitchen, an extra bathroom, a third-car garage, a bigger lot, a newer roof or furnace, all move the number. So does plain condition. This is where my construction background earns its keep, because "updated" on a listing and actually updated are not always the same thing, and buyers' inspectors find the difference fast.

A buyer is not paying for your square footage. They're paying for how it feels to live in it.
Part Four

Why the Zestimate Misses

It's a starting point, not a price. The Zestimate runs on public records and broad patterns, so it cannot see the things that actually move value: whether your kitchen was redone or is original, the condition, the light, the finishes, the way it feels when you walk in.

It also lags a moving market, and it gets shakier on new construction, acreage, and one-of-a-kind homes, which describes a whole lot of Utah County. Use it to get oriented. Do not list on it.

Now You Try

The Quick Comp Worksheet

Pull three or four recent solds that look like your home and drop them in. You'll get a rough price-per-square-foot range. This is the back-of-the-napkin version. It gets you in the neighborhood. It does not know your finishes or your lot, which is exactly why the adjustments above still matter.

Your home

Recent sold comps

Enter the sale price and finished square feet for each. Leave a row blank if you only have two or three.

Your quick ballpark

$0

Enter your square footage and at least one sold comp.

This is a rough orientation estimate based only on price per square foot. It is not an appraisal or a listing price, and it does not account for condition, updates, lot, or current competition. The real number comes from adjusting genuinely similar comps against your actual home.

The Whole Point

Sanity-Check Any Number, Including Mine

When anyone hands you a price, ask four questions: Is it built on solds or actives? How recent are they? How close? How similar? Then ask to see the comps.

A real price has receipts. If an agent can't show you why, or every comp they used is the highest sale in the zip code, be careful. The right price is not the highest number someone will say out loud to win your listing. It's the number a buyer will actually pay, and a good agent can show you exactly how they got there.

"A quick CMA gets you in the right neighborhood. A real one, with eyes on your actual finishes and the buyers who are out there right now, gets you to the right number. Do this first. Then you'll know which agents actually did the work, and which ones just told you what you wanted to hear."
Kelsie Jimenez  ·  801.420.2284
Want the real number on your house?Text me and I'll run your actual CMA →